Tuesday, June 9, 2009

What exactly is the Moldovan wine scene?

by Evodio Walle

If you've ever been to the Napa wine country in California, you've caught a glimpse of a commercial culture that is undoubtedly defining itself by the prestige of the local grapes and wine production. A quick stop to one of local restaurants along Highway 29, and you’d think you’ve reached the epicenter of where it all began, yet the fact is that per capita, Americans consume a mere 8.37 liters of wine per year compared to the French who chug 55.85 liters of the stuff each year. (1) That’s a lot of vino, amigo.

For the French, not having wine at a meal has to be analogous to say my mom not having tortillas at the table. God forbid. What I discovered during my first trip to Moldova was a quaint little culture where the cultural staple, wine, was as present in the lives of the Moldavians in ways I’d never imagined. So, what is the Moldovan wine scene exactly? In the famous words of Mark Twain:

“If you want me to give you a two-hour presentation, I am ready today. If you want only a five-minute speech, it will take me two weeks to prepare.”

What I can say is that thanks to the amazing hospitality of my friend, Serghei, the first impressions I got of the Moldovan wine culture were some to be cherished. My first treat was a tour of the world’s largest wine collection at the state run Milestii Mici winery, where the wine city consists of tunnels hundreds of kilometers long, 60 meters beneath the surface.

While the monument of a wine attraction was certainly a memorable experience, the experiences I carry with me are the simpler ones, such as drinking homemade wine, or finding an endless supply of ’83 vintage Negru de Purcari red wine at $32 USD per bottle. I can barely make it out of the Safeway grocery store with a decent gift bottle for twice that much, let alone one that I know will be good. By contrast, most Moldovan grocery stores carry a decent stock of wines that have won awards in the European circles of wine aficionados. I have to admit, I have to be told by those in the know what’s good and what’s not because I hate gambling even if it’s five bucks. But, point me to a bottle that has a gold medal or Grand Prix award, and it’s on. What? They’re $32 bucks a bottle? I’ll take a case. In fact, give me three cases. Would you believe that I have been able to bring back 16 bottles of wine in my personal luggage? I promise to write more about that in a future blog post. For now, Shhhh.

Right now, I can’t possibly continue to rant on and on about the Moldovan wine experience without first saying thanks to a group of close friends who where there since the beginning.

Serghei Culicovschi, if it weren’t for that spontaneous email I received from you over 3 years ago, looking for Web projects, to this day I wouldn’t even know where Moldova is and I wouldn’t be writing this blog. One thing for sure, is I’d have a flat screen TV in each room with all the money I’d saved in air fare. :D Still, thanks buddy. Life is much more colorful experienced directly than through any TV. You’re the man.

Nelly Papcova and Galya Curmeli, you were both a source of endless laughs, especially during times when I wasn’t in the best of spirits. Thank you for being there, and for being such clowns.

I’d especially like to thank all my newer friends for making each trip to Moldova as hospitable as possible. I hope to someday have the opportunity to return the favor. Mi casa es su casa.

A quick update on the wine import business:

Vendors are in place, the site is almost ready, and import licenses are pending. Irina and I are looking at a Fall ’09 launch. Hopefully in time for the October wine festival in Chisinau. More details to follow, so stay tuned.

(1) “World Fact Book”, Central Intelligence Agency (CIA), December 2006

Visit Moldova Wine Club

Visit www.moldovawineclub.com

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